Tawv ntau lawm: keeb kwm, piav qhia thiab siv thev naus laus zis

2024 Tus sau: Howard Calhoun | [email protected]. Kawg hloov kho: 2023-12-17 10:28

Tawv yog ib qho ntawm thawj cov ntaub ntawv uas tib neeg pib ua. Thaum xub thawj, cov tawv nqaij tsiaj tau hnav tsuas yog nyob rau hauv txoj kev roughest. Maj mam, cov khaub ncaws zoo li no tau dhau los ua kom txaus nyiam thiab xis nyob. Txawm tias tom qab ntawd cov khoom woven tsis tau hloov cov tsho tiv no, khau, siv rau tib neeg. Nyob rau hauv ancient sij hawm, tsuas yog me me kev cob qhia tau koom nyob rau hauv kev tsim cov khoom tawv. Niaj hnub no, xws li khaub ncaws, khau thiab accessories yog ua industrially. Tawv ntau lawm niaj hnub no zoo heev tsim nyob rau hauv lub ntiaj teb no thiab nyob rau hauv Russia. Tib lub sijhawm, peb lub teb chaws yog ib qho ntawm cov neeg siv khoom loj tshaj plaws hauv ntiaj teb.

Definition of tanneries

Piv rau lwm yam khoom siv los ua khaub ncaws, khau thiab khoom siv, tawv tsuas yog cov khoom tshwj xeeb. Cov tawv nqaij ntawm ib tug tsiaj yog ib tug complex lom system uas tsuas yog zoo kawg nkaus tiv thaiv nws los ntawm tej yam tsis zoo ib puag ncig. Thiab, ntawm chav kawm, khaub ncaws thiab khau ua los ntawm cov khoom zoo li no muaj cov khoom zoo ib yam. Lawv kuj tiv thaiv lawv cov neeg hnav zoo los ntawm kev ya raws.tsis kub, thiab lwm yam.

Leather production yog txheej txheem ntawm kev hnav cov tawv nqaij tsiaj kom haum rau kev ua khaub ncaws, khau thiab accessories. Niaj hnub no, cov chaw tsim khoom ntawm qhov tshwj xeeb no tau nruab nrog cov cuab yeej siv niaj hnub tshaj plaws thiab tsim lawv cov khoom siv cov thev naus laus zis tshiab.

Ancient siv tsiaj tawv

Keeb kwm ntawm cov tawv nqaij ntau tshaj ib txhiab xyoo. Cov tawv nqaij ntawm cov tsiaj tua tau zoo tiv thaiv tus txiv neej thaum ub los ntawm huab cua phem. Xws li khaub ncaws ua rau lub neej ntawm cavemen xis nyob, tab sis, hmoov tsis, tsis kav ntev. Raws li kev cuam tshuam ntawm noo noo thiab kub hloov pauv, cov tawv nqaij sai sai ua tsis tau. Nyob rau tib lub sijhawm, tib neeg tau kawm kom ntev lub neej ntawm cov khoom siv los ntawm kev tsim nws. Hmoov tsis zoo, nws tseem tsis tau paub tias thaum twg thawj cov khoom tawv tawv ua tiav hauv txoj kev no tshwm sim.

Txawm li cas los xij, cov kws tshawb fawb tau tshawb pom tias cov khaub ncaws thiab khau zoo li no tau nrov heev hauv tebchaws Iziv thaum ub nyob rau xyoo pua 5 BC. BC. Nyob rau hauv lub teb chaws no, ib zaug cov tawv nqaij twb qhuav qhuav nyob rau hauv ib tug stretched daim ntawv. Tom qab ntawd, rog tau ua tib zoo rubbed rau hauv lawv qhov chaw. Nyob rau theem tom ntej, cov tawv nqaij tau kneaded kom txog thaum softened. Los ntawm cov khoom siv ruaj khov thiab ntxim nyiam, lawv tau ua:

• siv rau ntau lub hom phiaj;
• bags, case;
• parchment;
• boats;
• chaw nyob ib ntus.

Tom qab ntawd, cov txheej txheem ntawm kev ua cov tawv nqaij kuj tau tsim. Nyob rau hauv lub hav ntawm VajHauv tebchaws Iziv, piv txwv li, pom cov khaub ncaws ntawm cov pov thawj los ntawm cov khoom no, khau khiab nrog kub, ntau yam khoom kim heev hauv tsev nrog engraving.

Nyob rau hauv lub Renaissance, ntawm lwm yam, xws li ib txoj kev ntawm decorating daim tawv nqaij raws li exquisite embossing yog invented. Tom qab ntawd cov craftsmen tuaj nrog cov txheej txheem ntawm gilding xws li cov khoom. Tseem tom qab ntawd, cov kws ua yeeb yam Fab Kis tau pib kho cov tawv nqaij nrog cov appliqués zoo nkauj.

Hauv tebchaws Russia, hnav cov tawv nqaij kuj tau nrov txij li thaum ub. Cov kev cob qhia zoo li no hauv cov hnub qub ntawm peb lub tebchaws tau ua haujlwm txhua qhov chaw. Piv txwv li, archaeologists nyob rau hauv Novgorod nyob rau hauv lub Slavic Hill qhib ib tug tawv rhiav ntawm lub xyoo pua 12th. Hauv cov qauv qub uas lawv tau khawb, cov kws tshawb fawb pom lub vat rau cov tawv nqaij, cov tawv tawv, thiab khau.

Thaum lawv pib ua los ntawm txoj kev lag luam

Nyob teb chaws Europe, tawv tau ua nyob rau hauv ib txoj kev xuas tes ua mus txog rau nruab nrab ntawm lub xyoo pua 18th. Thawj lub Hoobkas ntawm qhov tshwj xeeb no tau qhib hauv Fab Kis, hauv Alsace xyoo 1749. Kev tsim khoom loj thiab nruab nrab ntawm cov khaub ncaws tawv, khau thiab khoom siv hauv Tebchaws Europe pib qhib tsuas yog thaum pib ntawm lub xyoo pua 19th.

Hauv tebchaws Russia, tanneries lossis, raws li lawv tau hu ua, "yards", muaj txij li xyoo pua 17th. Piv txwv li, ib lub lag luam zoo sib xws tau qhib nyob rau hauv Moscow los ntawm kev txiav txim ntawm Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich nyob rau hauv 1668. Cov tawv nqaij ntawm no tannery tau hnav khaub ncaws nyob rau hauv loj pits lined nrog cib. Nyob rau hauv cov hnub, tawv hnav technologies tau tsim nyob rau hauv Russia, uas tau tom qab khaws cia mus txog rau thaum pib ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th.

In the XIX century. Cov "yards" ntawm Russia tau tsim cov tawv zoo tshaj plaws nyob rau hauv lub ntiaj teb no, uas yog nrov heev nyob rau hauv cov teb chaws Europe, America thiab Asia. Cov khoom no tau raug xa mus rau txawv teb chaws nyob rau hauv cov hnub tsuas yog nyob rau hauv loj loj. Tom qab lub kiv puag ncig thiab kev tsim ntawm USSR, tej yam ntuj tso tawv khoom nyob rau hauv peb lub teb chaws, hmoov tsis, los ua ib tug loj deficit. Tsuas yog cov neeg muaj nyiaj muaj peev xwm them taus cov khaub ncaws thiab khau.

Leather in Russia hnub no

Tam sim tom qab perestroika, peb lub teb chaws tau dhau los ntawm cov tawv tawv. Cov khoom siv los ntawm cov khoom siv no, ib txwm nyiam heev hauv tebchaws Russia, tau pib xa mus rau kev lag luam thiab cov khw muag khoom tshiab los ntawm ntau "shuttles". Cov khoom zoo sib xws tsis tau ua tsawg dua hauv kev thov hauv peb lub tebchaws hauv xyoo tom ntej. Niaj hnub no, Russia yog kab tias tus tsim khoom tseem ceeb thiab cov neeg siv khoom tawv hauv ntiaj teb.

Kev tsim khoom hnub no: ntau yam khoom

Txhua daim tawv nqaij yog ib yam khoom tshwj xeeb. Nws cov khoom nyob ntawm seb hom tsiaj uas nws tau txais, nws lub hnub nyoog, tus yam ntxwv ntawm kev khaws thiab pub mis, kev hnav khaub ncaws siv. Nyob rau hauv Russia, tam sim no, tag nrho cov technologies ntawm tawv ntau lawm yog tswj los ntawm GOST 3123-78. Yog li ntawd, cov khoom ntawm hom no yog tsim nyob rau hauv peb lub teb chaws ntawm txaus zoo. Muaj ntau hom tawv hauv Russia thiab lub ntiaj teb tam sim no:

• neeb-eeb - tawv nqaij nyuj, npua thiab nees siv los ua txoj siv sia;
• yuft - cov khoom siv sib xyaw ua ke,ua los ntawm cov tawv nqaij nyias nyias ntawm npua, nyuj lossis nees;
• calf - tawv tawv tawv nrog lub ntsej muag ci, tau los ntawm cov tawv nqaij ntawm cov nyuj mus txog 6 lub hlis;
• outgrowth - kuj yog tawv tawv heev ua los ntawm calf tawv mus txog 1 g;
• daim tawv nqaij ib nrab - ib qho khoom hnyav dua thiab ntxhib me ntsis ua los ntawm cov tawv nqaij nyuj uas muaj hnub nyoog qis dua ib xyoos thiab ib nrab xyoo;
• nqaij nyuj thiab nyuj - daim tawv nqaij ua los ntawm cov tawv nqaij ntawm cov menyuam yaus nyuj thiab nyuj laus dua ib xyoos thiab ib nrab;
• chevro thiab tshis - cov khoom siv nrog cov qauv zoo nkauj zoo nkauj uas tau los ntawm cov tawv nqaij tshis;
• chevret - tanned yaj daim tawv nqaij (tsawg dua cov tawv nqaij tshis);
• pigskin - cov khoom siv nrog cov ntxhib ntxhib-grained nto, muaj los ntawm qhov ntawm cov bristles;
• suede - tawv ntawm mos lwj, elk, yaj, tshis qus, ua tiav los ntawm rog tanning;
• velor - ib yam khoom ua los ntawm calf, chevro, tshis, chevret lossis pigskin.

Kuj paub qhov txawv ntawm cov khoom siv tawv xws li lub teeb nubuck, laika, lacquer khoom.

Main processing technologies

Hom tawv los ntawm kev lag luam niaj hnub no yog tsim, yog li ntawd, tsuas yog ib qho loj heev. Cov ntau yam uas tau tham saum toj no yog tsim los ntawm tanning lossis fatliquing. Nws yog cov tawv nqaij uas tam sim no muaj ntau tshaj plaws ntawm kev ua lag luam. Tab sis qee zaum tsiaj tawv nqaij tuaj yeem ua tiav siv lwm cov thev naus laus zis. Ntxiv nrog rau tanned, tawv yog tam sim no txawv:

• raw;
• rawhide.

Hauv kev lag luam tawv hauv tebchaws Russia, nrog rau thoob plaws ntiaj teb, txhua txoj kev hnav khaub ncaws tuaj yeem siv tau.

Cov tawv nqaij ntawm txhua tus tsiaj muaj peb txheej, uas yog hloov pauv lossis tshem tawm thaum hnav khaub ncaws. Sab nraud, cov khoom no npog lub epithelium. Nruab nrab txheej ntawm daim tawv nqaij yog suav hais tias yog lub ntsiab. Nws yog tsim los ntawm collagen protein molecules. Cov roj qis ntawm daim tawv nqaij muaj cov qauv xoob. Nws yog tus uas raug tshem tawm hauv cov txheej txheem ntawm hnav khaub ncaws rau ib qho tuab.

Cov txheej txheem nruab nrab collagen ntawm daim tawv nqaij tshiab tseem nyob ntawm tes. Tias yog vim li cas cov khoom no yog hloov tau thiab elastic. Tom qab ib lub sij hawm ntawm lub sij hawm, cov fibers ntawm nruab nrab txheej pib qhuav tawm thiab lo ua ke rau hauv ib tug nruam loj. Yog li ntawd, daim tawv nqaij ua tawv thiab nkig. Txhawm rau tiv thaiv qhov no los ntawm qhov tshwm sim, thaum lub sijhawm tsim khoom, cov tshuaj tshwj xeeb tau nkag mus rau hauv nruab nrab txheej ntawm cov khoom siv no - tanning cov neeg ua haujlwm lossis cov rog, uas tsis pub cov fibers poob elasticity thiab lo ua ke.

Dab tsi yog rawhide

Tam sim no, hauv kev lag luam tawv, tsiaj tawv nqaij yog ua tiav los ntawm tanning. Tab sis qee zaum cov txheej txheem qub ntawm kev ua rawhide tuaj yeem siv niaj hnub no. Cov khoom siv no suav tias yog cov khoom zoo tshaj li cov tanned, thiab feem ntau yog ua los ntawm cov cuab yeej hauv qab no:

• daim tawv nqaij ntxuav thiab tawv nqaij (cov roj txheej raug tshem tawm);
• tshem tawm cov plaub hau ntawm daim tawv nqaij los ntawm khawb;
• ua tib zoo rub daim tawv nqaij nrog ob txhais tes, ncab nwsraws ib lub rooj tsavxwm lossis lub kaum steel, nrog rau kev sib tw sib txawv, kom txog thaum muag muag.

Tawv ua li no ua rau me ntsis nplua thaum ntub. Txhawm rau tiv thaiv qhov no tshwm sim, nyob rau theem kawg nws yog fattened lossis impregnated nrog cov tshuaj tshwj xeeb.

Raw skin

Cov tshuab no tsis tshua muaj siv hauv cov tawv nqaij niaj hnub no. Cov khoom zoo li no yog hu ua liab qab. Cov tawv nqaij nyoos yog tsim los siv cov txheej txheem yooj yim. Nyob rau hauv rooj plaub no, tsuas yog cov plaub hau thiab cov roj qis yog tshem tawm ntawm daim tawv nqaij ntawm tus tsiaj. Tom qab ziab, xws li tawv nqaij ua horny. Cov khoom no yog siv nyob rau hauv peb lub sij hawm rau kev tsim cov nplawm rau racehorses, daim nyias nyias ntawm ib co suab paj nruas ntsuas, qhov chaw ntawm looms.

Lub chaw tseem ceeb ntawm tawv tsim hauv Russia thiab ntiaj teb

Nyob hauv peb lub tebchaws, kev lag luam ntawm qhov tshwj xeeb no ua haujlwm hauv ntau thaj tsam. Piv txwv li, cov khoom siv tawv thiab tawv yog tsim los ntawm cov chaw tsim khoom xws li:

• YVolgograd tannery.
• YYaroslavsky.
• Taganrog.
• Bogorodsky.
• Tverskoy.
• Rybinsky, thiab lwm yam.

Tau kawg, ceg ntawm kev lag luam teeb pom kev zoo no tau tsim nyob rau hauv peb lub sijhawm thiab ntau lub tebchaws hauv ntiaj teb. Lub hauv paus tseem ceeb rau kev tsim cov tawv nqaij raw cov ntaub ntawv nyob rau hauv lub ntiaj teb no, ntxiv rau Russia, niaj hnub no yog:

• Bangladesh (lub nroog Hazaribagh).
• China.
• India.
• Teb chaws Europe yav qab teb.

Tag nrho cov neeg ua haujlwm,Tam sim no muaj 500,000 tus neeg ua haujlwm nkaus xwb hauv kev tsim cov tawv nqaij, uas tom qab ntawd siv los tsim cov khaub ncaws, khau thiab khoom siv hauv ntiaj teb.