Weaving: txheej txheem piav qhia, nta, thev naus laus zis

2024 Tus sau: Howard Calhoun | [email protected]. Kawg hloov kho: 2023-12-17 10:28

Kev lag luam textile raug nyob hauv ib qho chaw tshwj xeeb hauv kev lag luam hauv lub tebchaws, muab cov neeg siv khoom ntawm ntau qib nrog ib qho ntawm cov khoom siv ntau tshaj plaws hauv ntu kev lag luam. Raws li kev coj ua ntawm cov neeg koom nrog hauv kev ua lag luam no, peb tuaj yeem tham txog kev tsim cov ntaub, knitwear, ntaub pua plag, thiab lwm yam. Raws li nws tsim, kev lag luam weaving tau dhau los ua nyuaj thiab ntxiv nrog cov haujlwm tshiab thiab muaj peev xwm. Tab sis ua ntej, koj yuav tsum paub koj tus kheej nrog cov keeb kwm theem ntawm kev tsim cov kev lag luam hauv Russia.

History of weaving

Kev xaws hauv tebchaws Russia raws li cov txheej txheem thev naus laus zis ua tiav rau kev tsim cov ntaub ntawv textile yuav tsum raug txiav txim siab pib txij li Peter I kav, thaum cov tub rog xav tau cov khaub ncaws tshiab. Kev ua tau zoo ntawm cov ntaub pua tsev niaj hnub ntawm Lavxias teb sab ntaub yog ua tau tsuas yog nrog lub koom haum ntawm kev ua hauj lwm ntawm weavingfactories, uas pib nyob rau hauv 1706, thaum thawj linen ntau lawm twb qhib. Tsis tas li ntawd, cov txheej txheem ntawm kev tshaj tawm cov ntaub, silk thiab linen manufactories tau mastered, cov khoom uas tsis txwv rau cov tsoos tsho thiab fabrics. Los ntawm nruab nrab ntawm lub xyoo pua 18th, kev lag luam hauv tsev tuaj yeem muab kev lag luam hauv tsev tsis yog nrog cov ntaub yooj yim tshaj plaws, tab sis kuj tseem muaj cov kab kos duab tshwj xeeb rau lub tsev teev ntuj, nrog rau cov rooj tog tshwj xeeb rau rooj tog.

Tib lub sijhawm, kom txog rau thaum pib ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th, keeb kwm ntawm kev xaws khaub ncaws nyob rau hauv Russia tau txuas nrog kev lag luam ntawm ntau lub teb chaws Europe tsim, nrog rau ntau lwm yam lag luam. Kev poob qis hauv kev vam khom rau kev paub txawv teb chaws thiab thev naus laus zis tau tshwm sim nyob rau hauv thawj ib nrab ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th tiv thaiv qhov cuam tshuam ntawm kev siv tshuab ntau ntawm cov lag luam textile, uas muaj txiaj ntsig zoo rau cov khoom lag luam zoo thiab kev tsim khoom. Los ntawm txoj kev, xyoo 1928 nws tau sau tseg tias Soviet textile kev lag luam siv txog 4,000 niaj hnub looms nrog qib siab ntawm kev siv tshuab thaum lub sijhawm ntawd.

Tam sim no, cov txheej txheem ntawm kev loj hlob ntawm cov mills nrog cov ntaub pua rooj rhiav tau nquag mus, cov tshuab shuttleless tau qhia, thiab cov txheej txheem ntawm kev tsim khoom tau rov tsim dua tshiab. Nyob rau hauv lub neej yav tom ntej, cov dej num tau teeb tsa los ua kom muaj peev xwm ntxiv nrog kev nce hauv cov khoom ntim ntau ntxiv nyob rau hauv lub moj khaum ntawm lub hauv paus ntsiab lus tsim. Txawm li cas los xij, lub tswv yim ntawm kev niaj hnub no tsis nyob hauv cov npe ntawm cov khoom tseem ceeb, uas tau xav txog qhov zoo ntawm cov khoom tshiab. Lub sijhawm ntev ua ntej xyoo 1990tib cov peev txheej tau ua haujlwm yam tsis muaj kev hloov kho, uas ua rau muaj kev xav tau los ua kom tau raws li cov kev xav tau ntawm kev lag luam hauv tsev ntawm tus nqi ntawm cov khoom lag luam zoo nkauj dua los ntawm cov neeg siv khoom zoo.

qauv thiab cov lus qhia ntawm kev tsim khoom

Kev lag luam textile muaj ob peb ceg. Cov tseem ceeb suav nrog cov hauv qab no:

• paj.
• Linen.
• Siab.

Ntxiv mus, kev tsim khoom ntawm textile kev lag luam sawv tawm, suav nrog kev xaws nrog rau cocoon winding, spinning, dyeing thiab thawj (cov txheej txheem ntawm cov khoom siv raw). Nyob rau tib lub sijhawm, nws tsis tuaj yeem xav txog txhua qhov kev lag luam no nruj me ntsis sib cais, txij li feem ntau lawv suav nrog kev ua haujlwm thev naus laus zis, uas tshwj xeeb tshaj yog tshwm sim hauv cov piv txwv ntawm kev lag luam puv puv. Lub hauv paus ntawm cov txheej txheem thev naus laus zis dav dav yog spinning thiab weaving, uas tuaj yeem sawv cev ua ke ntawm kev ua haujlwm ntawm pneumatic thiab mechanical. Raws li ib feem ntawm cov txheej txheem no, xov paj yog tsim los ntawm ntuj thiab tib neeg tsim fibers. Tom qab ntawd, ib daim ntaub nrog qee yam ntxwv yog tsim los ntawm cov xov npaj. Tab sis txawm nyob rau hauv ib qho kev pom nqaim, kev ua haujlwm ntawm cov ntaub qhwv nkaus xwb tuaj yeem raug cais raws li hom khoom siv. Feem ntau cov chaw tsim khoom tshwj xeeb hauv kev tsim cov khoom los ntawm cov khoom siv raw - linen, wool, paj rwb, thiab lwm yam.

Cov txheej txheem tsim khoom thiab kev ua tiav tiav tau ntxiv. Nyob rau hauv ib lub voj voog, weaving thiab xov ntau lawm muabkev npaj ntawm cov xov paj, xov thiab ntaub, uas yog raug rau tshwj xeeb ua, luam ntawv thiab dyeing. Tag nrho-fledged dyeing thiab xov cov khw yuav raug sau tseg, uas yog tsim nyob rau hauv lub moj khaum ntawm weaving factories thiab muab cov txheej txheem rau thermal, tshuaj thiab mechanical npaj ntawm cov khoom.

Technological map of weaving

Ua kom muaj qib txaus ntawm cov khoom lag luam thaum tswj cov khoom lag luam zoo yog tsis yooj yim sua yam tsis muaj kev txhim kho ua ntej ntawm kev tsim cov khoom lag luam ntawm kev lag luam nrog tag nrho cov theem logistics thiab cov txheej txheem siv tshuab rau kev ua cov ntaub ntawv raw. Cov hauv qab no yog siv rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm thawj cov ntaub ntawv rau kev txhim kho daim ntawv qhia kev yees duab ntawm cov txheej txheem ntau lawm:

• Forging shapes.
• Nyob raw khoom siv.
• yam ntxwv ntawm weft thiab warp threads.
• Txoj kev xav ntawm cov ntaub yuav ua.
• Kev teeb tsa thiab qauv ntawm cov ntaub.
• Yuav tsum tau npaj ua haujlwm.

Ib qho kev ua haujlwm tshwj xeeb yuav tsum tau ua yog txiav txim siab tib lub hauv paus. Nyob rau hauv hom ntawm tag nrho lub voj voog ntawm warp yarn ntau lawm, weaving tshuab muab rau cov txheej txheem ua hauj lwm hauv qab no: rewinding, warping, sizing, tho, tying, thiab lwm yam., moistening, steaming lossis emulsifying.

Cov xov warp, uas xa mus rau cov pob spinning, raug mob rau hauv bobbins. Qee lub tuam txhab tsis suav nrog cov txheej txheem no, txij li cov xovThaum pib, lawv mus rau spinning lossis twisting cov cuab yeej hauv reels. Thaum warping ntawm cov tshuab tshwj xeeb, qee cov xov tooj ntawm qhov ntev tau raug mob rau hauv pob. Nyob rau theem no, yuav siv tau ib tug weaving beam los yog warping ncej. Cov threads npaj tau impregnated nrog hnav khaub ncaws - qhov no yog ib qho kev daws teeb meem uas ua rau kom cov khoom tiv thaiv kom muaj kev ntxhov siab.

Cov xov sizing yog xa mus rau lub khw muag khoom. Nyob rau theem no, lub tuam tsev parting txuas nrog, qhov twg cov xov yog threaded rau hauv lamellas. Qhov kev ua haujlwm no yog ua rau ntawm lub tshuab sib cais lossis siv lub tshuab knotting. Nrog rau kev khi, weaving tuaj yeem suav tias yog kev ua haujlwm kawg ntawm kev npaj cov xov rau kev tsim cov khoom.

khoom

Cov khoom lag luam yog tsim los ntawm cov ntaub ntawv textile nkag mus rau theem kawg ntawm kev tsim khoom hauv ntau hom. Lub hauv paus rau kev npaj ntawm cov ntaub ntawv raw yog fibers, xov paj, xov thiab lawv cov derivatives xws li ntaub, xav, xav thiab knitwear. Hauv kev txiav txim siab dav, cov khoom siv textile hais txog lub cev muaj zog hloov tau yooj yim nrog qhov ntev ntev thiab me me transverse qhov ntev. Qhov tseem ceeb ntawm kev siv cov ntaub ntawv raw cov ntaub ntawv hauv kev xaws yog qhov tsim nyog rau kev tsim cov xov paj lossis cov khoom tiav textile. Qhov kev tsim nyog no yog txiav txim siab los ntawm ntau yam khoom thiab cov yam ntxwv ntawm cov khoom siv raw.

Txhua cov ntaub ntawv fiber ntau tau muab faib ua theem pib thiab kev tshaj lij. Cov qub yog ib qho fibers uas tsis tso caikev sib cais. Peb tuaj yeem hais tias qhov no yog ib qho khoom siv me me, los ntawm kev tsim ntau qhov blanks. Technical fibers, nyob rau hauv lem, yog tsim los ntawm ib pawg ntawm glued elementary fibers nyob rau hauv ib tug los yog lwm yam ua ke. Raws li kev siv thev naus laus zis, ob qho tib si theem pib thiab cov txheej txheem fiber ntau yuav tsum muaj qhov ntev ntev ntawm kaum mus txog pua millimeters. Cov filaments ntev tshaj plaws yog tsim los ntawm cov ntaub lo lo ntxhuav lossis cov tshuaj uas tau ua tiav tshwj xeeb.

Tsim cov khoom siv textile, xov yog siv, uas kuj yog ib pawg ntawm fibers longitudinally interconnected. Hauv qhov no, cov xov tseem ceeb thiab theem nrab raug cais tawm. Thawj cov fibers tau txais los ntawm kev ua haujlwm tshuaj ntawm spinning lossis spinning fibers. Txhawm rau npaj cov xov thib ob, siv cov txheej txheem texturing lossis twisting. Qhov no yog cov ntaub ntawv nyuaj dua, uas muab sijhawm ntau los hloov cov duab thiab cov khoom siv thiab lub cev ntawm cov khoom.

Khoom siv siv

Nyob rau hauv cov khoom siv niaj hnub no, nws tsis tuaj yeem ua yam tsis muaj kev siv tshuab thev naus laus zis thiab cov cuab yeej pabcuam uas muab cov tshuab xaws xaws. Kev ua haujlwm dav dav ntawm cov cuab yeej siv no yog tsom rau kev tsim cov ntaub nrog cov kev txwv thiab cov khoom ua ntej. Cov txheej txheem no tuaj yeem hloov kho los ntawm lub loom lossis ib pab pawg ntawm cov tshuab nruab nrog cov khoom siv hauv qab no:

• Shedding mechanism - muab kev txav ntawm lub ntsiabxov nyob rau hauv txoj kab ntsug.
• Combat unit - lays the weft thread through the shed.
• Batan ntaus ntawv - ua haujlwm ntawm nailing lub weft xov rau ntug ntaub.
• Brake - tso lub warp ntawm cov xov ntawm lub beam thiab teem nws kom txaus nro.
• Cov khoom lag luam tswj hwm - ua haujlwm ntau yam, suav nrog kev txav ntawm cov xov tseem ceeb nyob rau hauv txoj kab ntev thiab kev tshem tawm ntawm cov ntaub qhwv.

Raws li cov xwm txheej ntawm kev tsim khoom tshwj xeeb, ntau lub koom haum pabcuam thiab cov cuab yeej siv tau siv tau. Nws yog qhov yuav tsum tau ua rau cov mills weaving siv cov cuab yeej siv kev nyab xeeb, uas txo qhov kev pheej hmoo ntawm kev puas tsuaj. Piv txwv li, nyob rau hauv cov kev tshwm sim ntawm ib tug xov so, lawv cia li nres lub workflow los ntawm muab ib tug coj teeb liab rau lub tswj vaj huam sib luag. Restores tus txheej txheem ntawm tus tswv weaving, kuj saib xyuas cov kev khiav hauj lwm tsis ntawm lub loom nyob rau hauv ib txwm hom.

khoom siv

Nyob rau hauv Russia, tag nrho cov lag luam ntawm cov khoom lag luam muaj txog 4,000 hom khoom siv textile. Lub hauv paus ntawm no assortment yog tsim los ntawm fabrics ua los ntawm cov fibers muaj pes tsawg leeg ntawm linen, paj rwb, ntaub plaub thiab txhob lo lo ntxhuav threads. Tsis tas li ntawd, cov ntaub yog qhov txawv los ntawm ob peb yam ntxwv uas txiav txim siab qhov muaj nyob ntawm tus qauv, kev lag luam thiab kev faib nyiaj txiag. Txhua hom ntaub yog muab ib tsab xov xwm nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm tus lej tsim uas qhia txog cov yam ntxwv ntawm cov khoom, piv txwv li, nws cov kev ua tau zoo thiab cov yam ntxwv tsis. Ntxiv rauNyob rau theem kev npaj ntawm kev tsim cov ntaub, lub tuam txhab txiav txim siab txog cov yam ntxwv ntawm cov khoom uas yuav raug coj los ntawm. Tsawg kawg, qhov no yuav tsum yog cov xov tooj, qhov dav ntawm cov yam ntxwv ntawm cov khoom lag luam yuav tsim tau cov khoom lag luam muaj peev xwm tsim tau rau nws.

Kev siv cov thev naus laus zis tshiab hauv kev tsim khoom

Lub neej yav tom ntej ntawm kev lag luam, hais txog kev txhim kho thev naus laus zis, tuaj yeem cuam tshuam nrog kev ua haujlwm zoo ntawm kev tsim kho uas txhim kho cov txheej txheem ua haujlwm zoo. Tam sim no tam sim no, cov kab ntau lawm ntawm cov chaw tsim khoom lag luam qib siab tau raug xa mus rau lub tshuab hluav taws xob tswj nrog cov khoom siv neeg hlau. Kev saib xyuas tshwj xeeb yog them rau kev siv cov sensors thiab tswj cov txheej txheem hauv cov cheeb tsam ntawm qhov yuav tshwm sim rupture, uas txo cov feem pua ntawm kev tsis lees paub thiab kev puas tsuaj rau fibers. Nyob rau tib lub sijhawm, kev txhim kho ntawm kev tsim cov tshuab xaws tsis ua tiav yam tsis muaj kev lag luam. Zoo li txhua yam khoom siv hauv kev lag luam, tshuab xaws yuav tsum tau them nqi hluav taws xob tseem ceeb. Cov thev naus laus zis tshiab tso cai kom txo qis kev siv lub zog ntawm cov cuab yeej siv tshuab los ntawm 5-10% mus rau 35-50%, nyob ntawm lub hauv paus ntsiab lus ntawm kev ua haujlwm ntawm chav tsev. Tsuas yog txoj kev tswj hwm tshiab tso cai rau koj los ua ke cov khoom siv hluav taws xob nrog pneumatic traction, ua tiav kev ua kom zoo ntawm cov nqi hluav taws xob. Cov qauv kev hloov pauv kuj tseem muab cov khoom zoo rau lub koom haum ntawm cov txheej txheem tsim khoom. Nyob rau hauv cov kev taw qhia no, ib tug yuav nco ntsoov ib tug nce nyob rau hauv lub yooj ntawm lub tsav thaum qhib lub caj pas, ib tug nce nyob rau hauv cov kev pab cuam.shafts thiab khoom downsizing.

Kev ua haujlwm ntawm tes

Hauv kev nkag siab dav, cov neeg ua haujlwm textile tau nthuav tawm ua cov thom khwm. Txawm li cas los xij, hauv kev lag luam muaj ntau yam tshwj xeeb ntawm tus kheej. Txog rau tam sim no, feem ntau ntawm lawv tau cuam tshuam nrog kev ua haujlwm ntawm tus neeg teb xov tooj uas tswj kev ua haujlwm ntawm ib pawg ntawm cov cuab yeej siv. Yog li, lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb ntawm kev tsim cov ntaub qhwv muaj xws li hauv qab no:

• Tus neeg teb xov tooj. Khaws daim npav khiav, thauj khoom, thiab kho qhov tawg thaum tawm ntawm lub tshuab.
• Spinner. Ua haujlwm rau lub tshuab spinning, tshuaj xyuas qhov zoo ntawm roving thiab cov xov uas xa mus rau cov khoom siv. Txoj haujlwm spinner kuj suav nrog kev tswj xyuas cov xov paj kawg.
• Zaj. Tswj cov txheej txheem winding, kho qhov pom kev nruj thiab tshem tawm kev so.
• Nyob. Ncaj nraim txoj haujlwm yooj yim hauv kev lag luam weaving, uas nws cov dej num yog txuam nrog ntau yam kev ua ub no. Nws yuav tsum tshem tawm cov ntaub winding, xyuas cov ntaub tsis xws luag, ua cov khoom tu, thiab lwm yam. Ib tug tswv cuab ntawm txoj haujlwm no feem ntau tuaj yeem tswj cov txheej txheem ntau lawm ntawm ntau theem.
• Quality controller. Cov kws tshaj lij ntawm hom no ua haujlwm ntawm kev tsis lees paub thiab ntsuas ntsuas, txheeb xyuas kev sib yuav ntawm cov ntaub, nrog rau kev ntsuas nws ua raws li cov yam ntxwv tsim. Lawv kuj ua daim ntawv lo ntawm cov khoom.

Kev tsis txaus siab

Cov tsos ntawm qhov tsis xws luag hauv kev tsim cov ntaub tuaj yeem cuam tshuam nrog ntau yam tsis xws luag hauv kev xaws - los ntawm qhov pib tsis zoo ntawm cov ntaub ntawv raw mus rau kev siv lub tshuab tsis raug thaum ua haujlwm tshwj xeeb. Cov teeb meem tshwm sim ntawm hom no suav nrog cov hauv qab no:

• Blizna - kev tawg ntawm cov xov tseem ceeb, uas ua rau muaj kev ua txhaum ntawm txoj hlua khi thiab tsim cov kab ntev.
• Podpletina - so hauv pab pawg ntawm warp threads, entailing kev hloov ntawm tus qauv ntawm cov ntaub hauv ib cheeb tsam.
• Nickle - weft xov foob uas dhau mus dhau qhov kev tso cai. Cov hom kev tsis xws li no feem ntau tshwm sim los ntawm lub tshuab ua tsis tiav thiab tshwj xeeb tshaj yog pom thaum cov xim tsis sib xws.
• Tagging - tsis muaj ib lossis ntau dua cov xov paj, vim qhov sib txawv ntawm qhov sib txawv ntawm cov ntaub.
• Undercut - tsis tshua muaj cov xov xwm tshwm sim los ntawm kev ua txhaum cai hauv kev teeb tsa lub tshuab. Qhov kev tsis zoo no ua rau muaj qhov tsis muaj zog ntawm cov qauv ntawm cov teeb meem thiab cov tsos ntawm pom banding hauv dyed fabrics.

Zaj lus

Txawm hais tias muaj keeb kwm nplua nuj ntawm kev tsim thiab kev tsim kho thev naus laus zis, kev lag luam textile tseem yog ib qho ntawm cov neeg ua haujlwm hnyav tshaj plaws thiab nyuaj ntawm kev lag luam hauv tebchaws. Qhov no kuj yog vim qhov tseeb tias txawm tias cov chaw tsim khoom loj yuav ua haujlwm hauv ib lub niche tshwj xeeb, muab cov neeg siv khoom txwv ntau yam khoom. Txawm li cas los xij, weaving ntau lawm nyob rau hauv Russia kuj yog sawv cev los ntawm cov lag luam nrog ib tug dav teb ntawm kev ua ub no. Cov no suav nrog LLC"KamyshinLegProm", koom nrog spinning ntawm paj rwb fibers thiab zus tau tej cov fabrics los ntawm nws tus kheej raw cov ntaub ntawv. Ntawm qhov tod tes, Bryansk Worsted Plant LLC tshwj xeeb hauv kev tsim cov ntaub tshwj xeeb rau cov khaub ncaws, khaub ncaws thiab cov khaub ncaws koom nrog.