Natural fibers: keeb kwm thiab khoom

2024 Tus sau: Howard Calhoun | [email protected]. Kawg hloov kho: 2023-12-17 10:28

Natural fibers (paj rwb, linen thiab lwm yam) yog cov khoom siv tseem ceeb rau kev lag luam textile hauv tsev. Lawv yog tsim los ntawm ntau yam khoom ntuj tsim.

Keeb kwm ntawm ntuj fibers

Raw khoom, dua, yog tau los ntawm ntau yam khoom. Nyob ntawm cov khoom siv, cov fibers txawv ntawm ib leeg hauv qhov zoo, zoo li, thiab lwm yam ntxwv. Nyob rau tib lub sijhawm, muaj ib pawg ntawm cov khoom siv raw khoom siv feem ntau. Hauv kev lag luam textile, natural plant fibers yog thawj qhov chaw ntawm kev siv. Lawv cov yam ntxwv nyob ntawm seb cov yam ntxwv ntawm cov qoob loo los ntawm cov khoom siv raw. Tsis tas li ntawd, natural fibers ntawm tsiaj keeb kwm yog siv. Cov no suav nrog, piv txwv li, ntaub plaub, silk.

Txoj kev ntawm ntuj fibers

Raws li tau hais los saum no, cov yam ntxwv ntawm cov khoom siv raw yog nyob ntawm tus yam ntxwv ntawm cov khoom uas lawv tau txais. Feem ntau yog paj rwb fibers. Lawv tau txais los ntawm cov qoob loo tshwj xeeb. Paj rwb yog cog nyob rau hauv ntau tshaj 50 lub teb chaws. Nws yog ib tug perennial thermophilic kab lis kev cai. Cov nroj tsuag zoo li ib tsob ntoo, qhov siab ntawm uas yog los ntawm ib meter thiabntau. Txhua xyoo, tom qab flowering, txiv hmab txiv ntoo yog tsim nyob rau hauv kab lis kev cai. Lawv tau nthuav tawm nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm lub thawv nrog cov noob. Lawv npog los ntawm 7 mus rau 15 txhiab plaub hau. Lawv yog paj rwb fibers. Qhov ntev ntawm cov plaub hau yog nyob rau hauv thaj tsam ntawm 12-60 mm. Lawv ntev dua, cov xov paj thiab cov ntaub zoo dua. Textiles yog tsim los ntawm ntuj fibers, uas tuaj yeem yooj yim dyed thiab ua tiav. Raws li txoj cai, cov khoom noj rau kev lag luam muaj xim dawb lossis xim av. Meanwhile, tam sim no, cultivation technologies tuaj yeem tsim cov xim ntuj fibers.

Bat raw khoom

Natural fibers yog tau los ntawm stems thiab nplooj ntawm ntau yam qoob loo. Cov no, piv txwv li, suav nrog jute, flax, nettle thiab lwm yam. Linen natural fibers suav hais tias yog qhov thinnest, feem ntau yoog raws thiab softest. Los ntawm lawv, xov paj yog thawj tsim. Cov ntaub muaj zog thiab mos yog tom qab tsim los ntawm nws. Linen yog ntau hom. Qhov ntev ntawm cov fibers nyob ntawm qhov siab ntawm qia. Qhov tseem ceeb tshaj plaws hauv kev lag luam kev xav yog fiber ntau flax. Nws cov stems tuaj yeem ncav cuag qhov siab ntawm 0.8-1 m.

txheej txheem kom tau txais cov ntaub ntawv raw

Ripe flax stems yog rub tawm nrog rau cov hauv paus hniav. Qhov no yog qhov tsim nyog los tswj qhov ntev ntawm cov fibers. Cov txheej txheem no hu ua "rub". Yav dhau los, nws tau ua manually. Tam sim no, kev sib koom ua ke tshwj xeeb tau ua haujlwm hauv cov teb. Nyob rau hauv flax threshers, stalks yog freed los ntawm noob. Lub resulting straw yog soaked nyob rau hauv tshwj xeeb pas dej ua ke los yog lwm yam dej. Ib feem ntawm flax qia yog bast. Nws nyob hauv qab tawv tawv. Nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm nyias ligaments, nws muaj fibers. Lawv cais tawm ntawm stems yog nqa tawm ntawm cov nroj tsuag tshwj xeeb. Cov tuam txhab lag luam siv cov cuab yeej tshwj xeeb rau kev sib cais cov fibers los ntawm cov tawv ntoo thiab lawv cov txheej txheem tom ntej. Cov stems soaked yog qhuav. Tom qab ntawd lawv raug crushed thiab co. Lub ntuj fibers ces bleached raws li lawv muaj ib lub teeb daj rau hlau xim.

Lwm qoob loo

Cov fibers ntawm lwm cov nroj tsuag yog ntxhib thiab tawv. Lawv tsuas yog siv rau hauv kev tsim cov hlua, canvas, burlap, ropes, thiab lwm yam. Piv txwv li, hemp fiber yog cov khoom siv ntuj tsim thiab zoo ib yam li linen hauv ntau txoj kev. Txawm li cas los xij, nws tsis yog mos. Hauv qhov no, nws yog siv, raws li txoj cai, hauv kev tsim cov canvas, burlap, twine, ropes. Bast natural fibers tau txais tsis tau tsuas yog los ntawm stems. Cov nplooj tuaj yeem ua cov khoom siv raw, piv txwv li.

Silk

Rau nws cov khoom, fibers yog siv, uas tau los ntawm silkworm cocoons. Lawv yog tsim nyob rau hauv ib tug tej yam theem nyob rau hauv txoj kev loj hlob ntawm caterpillars. Lawv weave ib cocoon, uas yog oblong qe-puab plhaub. Nws muaj cov fiber ntau zoo tshaj plaws, uas yog interwoven hauv 40-50 txheej. Cov xov yog tsim raws li nram no. Muaj ob lub qhov ntawm lub taub hau hauv qab lub qhov ncauj ntawm kab ntsig. Ib tug tuab kua yog tso tawm los ntawm lawv, uas freezes nyob rau hauv cov huab cua. Nws txoj kev kawm tsis tu ncua. Yog li ntawd, 2 strands yog tsim, uas yog glued ua ke nrog sericin. Qhov no yog ib yam khoom tshwj xeebuas kuj txawv los ntawm kab ntsig. Yog li ntawd, ib tug xov yog tsim, uas mus rau weave ib cocoon.

kev ua lag luam

Cov xim ntawm cov cocoon nyob ntawm seb hom kab lo lo ntxhuav. Lawv yog xim liab-daj, dawb, daj. Lwm hom silkworms kuj yog bred, uas weave daj ntseg liab, ntsuab, xiav cocoons. Txawm li cas los xij, nws yuav tsum tau hais tias cov xim ntuj ntawm cov xov tsis ruaj khov. Tsis tas li ntawd, cov xim fibers tuaj yeem ua rau cov txheej txheem dyeing nyuaj. Ua ntej siv ntxiv hauv kev lag luam, cocoons yog bleached.

Kom tau txais cov fibers zoo, cocoons raug kho nrog chav lossis cua kub. Lub pupae nyob rau hauv lawv raug tua, thiab tiv thaiv decomposition, lawv qhuav. Yog tias qhov no tsis ua tiav, kab yuav tig mus ua npauj npaim thiab pib tawm ntawm cocoon. Raws li, nws yuav raug rau cov neeg kho tshuab puas tsuaj, uas cuam tshuam qhov zoo ntawm cov xov. Ua ntej winding cov fibers, cov cocoons tau muab tso rau hauv cov pas dej uas muaj dej kub. Tom qab ntawd lawv tau kho nrog chav thiab alkaline daws. Qhov no yog qhov tsim nyog rau soften lub sericin. Ib cocoon muab txog 400-1200 m ntawm xov. Txawm li cas los xij, nws yog nyias. Yog li ntawd, fibers ntawm 3 mus rau 30 cocoons tau muab tso rau hauv ib qho.

Nyob

Dab tsi lwm yam ntuj fibers siv hauv kev lag luam? Tsiaj txhu muab kev lag luam thiab ntaub plaub. Nws tseem ua tiav kom tau cov xov. Wool muaj ntau yam zoo thiab cov yam ntxwv. Qhov sib txawv muaj nyob rau hauvfibers ntawm ib tug tsiaj ntawm ntau hom. Piv txwv li, los ntawm yaj cov ntaub plaub, ib qho uas tau los ntawm cov yaj uas zoo-fleeced thiab semi-fleeced yaj yog muaj nqis heev. Nyob rau hauv tus txheej txheem ntawm kev txiav, cov plaub hau yog tshem tawm nyob rau hauv ib tug nruam txheej. Fleece sib txawv hauv qhov zoo. Cov fibers tseem ceeb tshaj plaws yog nyob rau sab nraub qaum, plab, lub xub pwg hniav. Cov plaub hau ntawm ob txhais ceg thiab nraub qaum yog ntxhib. Txawm li cas los xij, down yog suav tias yog qhov zoo tshaj plaws thiab muaj txiaj ntsig tshaj plaws. Nws cov fibers yog hloov tau, elastic thiab nyias. Qhov zoo ntawm cov ntaub plaub feem ntau nyob ntawm lub sijhawm txiav. Cov fibers tau txais nyob rau hauv lub caij nplooj ntoos hlav yuav softer. Lawv muaj ntau fluff. Nyob rau hauv lub caij nplooj zeeg nws yog yuav luag tsis muaj nyob rau hauv ntaub plaub. Yog li ntawd, cov fibers yog nruj. Txawm li cas los xij, lub caij nplooj zeeg wool yog huv dua li lub caij nplooj ntoos hlav. Ntawm cov fibers txawv:

1. Awn yog tuab fiber.
2. Txoj plaub hau. Raws li nws cov yam ntxwv, nws occupies ib nrab txoj hauj lwm ntawm lub awn thiab down.
3. "Tuag" plaub hau. Nws yog nthuav tawm nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm nruj thiab tsis muaj zog fibers.

txheej txheem nta

Cov khoom ntawm cov xov paj yuav nyob ntawm qhov zoo ntawm cov fibers uas tau siv kom tau txais nws. Qhov zoo tshaj plaws ntau yam yog tsim los ntawm fluff. Qhov zoo ntawm fibers yog txiav txim siab tsis tsuas yog los ntawm lawv lub zog, softness, fineness, tab sis kuj los ntawm lawv qhov ntev. Nws, nyob rau hauv lem, yuav nyob ntawm seb hom yaj. Qhov ntev ntawm cov ntaub plaub tuaj yeem ncav cuag 180-200 mm. Cov ntaub ntawv nyoos yeej ib txwm raug rau kev ua thawj zaug. Nws suav nrog kev txheeb xyuas, ntxuav cov khib nyiab (cov pob hauv ntiaj teb, burdock, thiab lwm yam). Tom qab ntawd detachment, loosening yog ua. Tom qab ntawd, cov ntaub plaub yog ntxuav thiab qhuav. Kev txheeb xyuas yog ua tiav manually. Fleece tau muab tso rau ntawm cov rooj tshwj xeeb. Ntawm no nws muab faib ua ntu. Raws li qee cov qauv zoo, cov ntaub plaub hauv cov batch raug xaiv. Ntxuav yog nqa tawm nrog tshwj xeeb compositions nrog ntxiv detergents. Qhov no yog tsim nyog los tshem tawm cov rog rog.

tshuaj raw khoom

Nrog kev txhim kho thev naus laus zis, nws tau dhau los ua cov khoom siv dag zog thiab hluavtaws. Qhov laj thawj tseem ceeb ntawm kev siv tshuaj hauv kev tsim cov khoom siv raw yog qhov kev thov siab rau textiles. Cov peev txheej ntawm cov khoom siv ntuj tsim tsis tuaj yeem ua tau raws li cov kev xav tau ntawm cov pej xeem. Tau txais cov khoom siv raw khoom yog ua los ntawm cov khoom siv ntuj tsim. Cov no, tshwj xeeb, muaj xws li paj rwb, ntoo thiab lwm yam cellulose, mis nyuj proteins, thiab lwm yam. Cov tshuaj no raug rau tshuaj kho nrog nitric, sulfuric, acetic acids, acetone, caustic soda, thiab lwm yam. Cov txiaj ntsig yog viscose, nitro silk, acetate, tooj liab-ammonia silk.

khoom siv hluavtaws

Lawv tau txais los ntawm kev ua cov khoom sib txawv. Ntawm lawv: roj thiab thee, cuam tshuam thiab natural gases, ua liaj ua teb pov tseg thiab pulp thiab ntawv ntau lawm. Siab molecular hnyav resins yog cais los ntawm cov khoom. Lawv ua raws li cov khoom pib rau kev tsim cov khoom siv hluavtaws. Kev ua thiab kev ua cov resins yog nqa tawm raws li ib tug tshwj xeeb, theej complex technology. Ntawm cov hluavtaws fibers, nylon, lavsan, kapron, milan, polyvinyl chloride thiab lwm yam yog siv dav. Tshuajraw cov ntaub ntawv yog muab tej yam zoo yam ntxwv ua ntej. Tshwj xeeb, nws yog ruaj, tiv taus ya raws, xim, thiab lwm yam.

sib tov raw khoom

Cov tshuaj thiab cov fibers ntuj tau hais los saum no yog cov ntaub ntawv homogeneous. Lub caij no, niaj hnub no kev sib tov ntawm raw cov ntaub ntawv yog tau txais ntau thiab ntau nrov. Kev taw qhia txog cov thev naus laus zis tshiab hauv kev tsim textile muab lub sijhawm txaus kom tau txais ntau yam ntawm cov xov paj. Ntuj fibers tuaj yeem sib xyaw ua ke nrog ib leeg thiab nrog cov khoom siv dag zog thiab hluavtaws. Piv txwv li, lawv muab nylon thiab linen, nylon thiab ntaub plaub. Txhawm rau kom tau txais cov ntaub qhwv ib nrab thiab ib nrab woolen, tsis yog siv cov fibers sib xyaw xwb. Cov thev naus laus zis tshiab ntawm kev xaws yog siv los ua haujlwm. Tshwj xeeb, thaum tsim cov ntaub linen, cov xov warp yog cov xov paj ntawm qee cov fibers, thiab cov weft - ntawm lwm tus.

Zaj lus

Kev lag luam textile yog suav tias yog ib qho ntawm cov khoom lag luam loj tshaj plaws. Cov ntaub ntawv zoo raw khoom yuav tsum tau siv los tsim cov khoom xav tau. Nws yuav tsum ua raws li lub xeev cov qauv, yuav tsum tau ua tib zoo ua. Qhov no yog qhov tseem ceeb rau fibers ntawm txhua lub hauv paus chiv keeb, suav nrog cov tshuaj lom neeg. Nws yuav tsum raug sau tseg tias cov khoom siv thev naus laus zis niaj hnub tau nthuav tawm hauv kev lag luam. Qhov no, nyob rau hauv lem, yuav tsum tau muab cov ntaub ntawv tshiab.